One of my 'summer break' reads was a surf writer's memoir, Barbarian Days by William Finnegan, writer for the New Yorker. It was an interesting read and here was someone who could really make you feel you were riding the wave with him. But that might just be me, as an olden times surfer.
Nonetheless, it was front and centre this afternoon when I headed down to my local for a few shots after work. You see, dear reader, the packing, sorting and discarding of thirteen years of office accumulation has begun in earnest. What I really wanted to do when I got to the beach was have a surf...
...but instead, I did the next best thing, and took a few shots. It was all about the waves. It was a stunning early evening, after all the rain we've had and I had a bit of a chance to play around with small aperture, slow shutter effects as well (although, I should have taken the tripod; next time).
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| The colours were first (6.37pm) |
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| A little foam lip |
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| After the wave |
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| Clouds as waves as reef |
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| Race to the shore |
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| Up and... |
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| ...over |
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| Wavelet |
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| Paddle boarding |
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| And the colour was last (6.47pm) |
I got myself down onto the actual sand this eve: sand, water, shellbits, dogs, kids...the whole lot. Think I might have to write a surfing book (after I've written all the others).
[Camera : Canon EOS60D, 70-300mm, 6.37pm-6.47pm, 6 January 2016]
